Stencilling is an easy way to add effects to fabrics, walls and even floors.

Stencilling on fabric works extremely well and if the fabric paint is correctly cured, the article will be completely washable. In my experience, the best results are usually obtained by using a natural fabric such as cotton, linen or canvas (sold as PFP), which has been prepared for printing. In effect, this means that it has no finish that could affect the absorption of the fabric paint into the fabric.

Any fabric that contains man-made fibres tends to repel the fabric paint and also causes it to bleed along these fibres. Although synthetic blends may be used, as a precaution I would limit their use to articles that do not need much washing, or by using spray paints in place of fabric paints. A general test to see if fabric is suitable for fabric paint is to drop a little water onto the surface; if it is immediately absorbed, it should take the fabric paint, but if the water forms a little bubble on the surface, it is best not to use it as the fabric will not absorb the paint well enough to be washable.

Cotton muslin prints well and is suitable for articles such as filmy, airy curtains and beach sarongs. Remember to work on sheets of absorbent paper, as the fabric paint will seep right through the open weave of the fabric. Heavy canvas called 'cotton duck', because of its ability to shed water, may be used for deck chairs and floor cloths, and also absorbs fabric paint very well, but should be protected before use. Deckchair covers may be Scotchguarded™ and the floor cloths varnished.

It's important to keep in mind that the texture of a fabric adds to the overall finish of the stencilled article- the smoother the fabric, the finer the result, while rougher fabrics add interest to ethnic and animal prints. Bolton cloth (previously known as heavy or K-sheeting) is also suitable for an ethnic look. The background colour of a fabric can play an important role in the final result, so choose a colour that will complement the design you are stencilling.

Plan the Layout
Position your stencil on the wall at the desired height and mark the alignment holes or top edge. Then snap a light, horizontal chalk line around the room at that height, or use faint pencil marks, which can be easily removed or covered later.

When painting walls, the key to a good layout is to avoid awkward pattern breaks at doors, windows and corners. To work out the best spacing, measure the stencil pattern and mark the actual repetitions on the wall. Vary the spacing slightly as needed to make the pattern fall in a pleasing way. Or if your stencil has multiple figures, you can alter the spacing between them like we did. Start your layout at the most prominent part of the room and make compromises in less visible areas. Draw vertical lines at the pattern center points to make positioning easier.

Dab On the Paint
The main tip to achieving a successful project is to put a small quantity of paint on a paper plate. Push the stencilling brush into the paint just enough to coat the tips of the bristles, then pat off the excess on a dry cloth or newspaper, making sure the paint spreads to all the bristles as you do so. The brush should be almost dry - remember, it’s easier to add paint than it is to take it away.

Hold the stencil pattern with your free hand to keep it still and flat. Don’t worry about getting paint on the stencil, but avoid wiping or stabbing too hard around the edges. You can cover the cutout completely or work for shading effects. Cover nearby cutouts with masking tape so you don’t accidentally get paint in them.

Mistakes are easy to correct. You can lift the stencil and wipe off any paint that’s smeared under the edge with a damp paper towel, or touch it up later with wall paint. If you wipe some of the stencilled area away, just lay the stencil down again and touch up.